Then and Now: Elliott Street

By Ted Ross

Then

Forests primeval once grew where today's Royal British Columbia Museum is located. When James Douglas arrived, looking for a site to construct a Hudson's Bay Company Fort in 1842, he landed at and named Clover Point. The south and southeastern slopes of Meeacan (Beacon Hill), covered with the camus fields of the Lekwungen people, fascinated him. Surrounded by verdant grasslands, green with spring rains, it looked suitable for agriculture. Douglas opted for Victoria harbour over the forest-enclosed Esquimalt and Sooke harbours.

In his own words, "The place itself seems a perfect Eden in the midst of the dreary wilderness of the Northwest coast, and so different in its general aspect, from the wooded rugged regions around, that one might be pardoned for supposing it had dropped from the clouds into its present position." (James Douglas in a letter describing his landing near Clover Point in 1842.)

When the future governor looked for land for himself later in the decade, he purchased 600 acres from the HBC, largely in Fairfield, but including the north end of Beacon Hill, which was forested. Although much of the James Bay peninsula was under cultivation, this north slope was not, and remained in its original state.

In 1849 Douglas moved the HBC Pacific Coast headquarters from Fort Vancouver to Fort Victoria. The Company now had a lease to the whole of Vancouver Island, and were expected to establish a colony there. Richard Blanshard was sent from England to be governor that year, but left in 1851 and was replaced by James Douglas.

Living in the Fort, being both HBC Chief Factor and Governor of Vancouver Island, Douglas felt it proper that he should make his residence outside the Fort.

In 1851 construction began on the Douglas house, roughly where the IMAX Theatre sits today. The house was built by the French Canadians who worked at the Fort, with labour provided by the Lekwungen. It was built in the Quebec style with timbers and plaster. An article in the Daily Colonist in 1925 recalls, "The house, although built of logs, was of large proportions...and well-furnished and decorated for pioneer days. The estate was large and beautifully set out."

In 1852, Dr. John Sebastian Helmcken, HBC physician, married Cecilia Douglas, eldest Douglas child. James Douglas gave them an acre of land to the east of his house. On this land they constructed a log and plaster dwelling for their home, handy to Cecilia's mother. The gardens were cleared and developed by hard physical labour, creating a showpiece alongside the Douglas estate. With two later additions, Helmcken House stands today, the oldest dwelling with original furnishings in British Columbia, a museum beside Thunderbird Park.

Sir James Douglas lived in his large house until death took him in 1877. Lady Douglas lived in the home another 13 years, passing away in 1890.

Elliott Street, at this time was "but a private entrance road extending from Douglas Street to the gates of the estate." (Daily Colonist 1925)

The house remained in the Douglas family until 1902, when the furniture was auctioned off. In 1906 the building was sold for $25 on the condition that it be demolished within 21 days. The Colonist wrote, "Time, like the affectionate trees around it, has been gentle with its old timbers, but the human destroyer has marked it for his own." Elliott Street would now run from Government to Douglas directly through the house site. This was the beginning of the street's appearance in the City Directories.

Other houses appeared along the road. An archival photo from 1910 shows three beautiful houses on the south side with the Helmcken House and grounds, hidden by trees, on the north. Several large houses had appeared along Government Street, between Elliott and Belleville by this time. All of these dwellings appear on the Fire Insurance Map of 1908.

North of the demolished Douglas house, the grounds were kept and maintained as the Douglas Gardens. Sitting in the garden on June 30, 1927, Colonist writer Katherine Hale relates, "We sat under the cherry tree and watched the garden and the house rise dream-like out of the past...the beautiful domes and buildings of Victoria were outlined through ancient boughs."

In 1907 Victoria street addresses were renumbered to the grid in use today. This change is obvious when comparing the 1906 entries with those of 1909. According to the "City of Victoria and Suburban Directory" of 1906, Gustav Michaelis, a merchant, occupied 11 Elliott Street; George Snider, a contractor, lived at 13; 14 was vacant; Henry Munday lived and sold boots and shoes at 15; while The Honourable J.S. Helmcken lived at 20. The 1909 Directory tells us Caroline McDonald, a widow, lived at 615; John W. Morris was at 625; H.E. Munday, a shoe merchant, at 633; and The Hon. J.S. Helmcken lived at 638. Helmcken's final appearance in the directories is in the 1920 edition as he passed away that year. For the years until 1939 his daughter, Mrs. E.L. Higgins continued to live in the family home, until her death. "The house was then acquired by the Provincial Government in July of that year and turned over to the Provincial Archives for use as an historical house museum. On August 26, 1941, the house was formally opened." (The Beaver, December 1943) The first mention of the Helmcken House museum in the City Directory is in the 1945 edition.

In 1909, at 606 Douglas, a hotel was built in the Italianate style to offer competition to the nearby Empress Hotel. Named The Criterion, it stood slightly south of Elliott's intersection with Douglas. Alex J.C. M^cDermott, the first proprietor, lent a Scottish atmosphere to the lodging, which has been perpetuated over the years. In 1912 it was renamed The Glenshiel. Additions were built in 1912, 1925, 1926 and 1957-58.

The property was purchased by the province in 1972. By 1980 it desperately needed upgrading to meet modern standards. A major renovation took place in 1982. The Glenshiel officially opened as a seniors' residence on September 19, 1983, with further renovations taking place in 1996-97.

In the 1932 edition of the City Directory we find Provincial Government agencies on Elliott Street, with the B.C. Goverment Police Court and the Game Department at 615, just around the corner from Government Street, across from the Parliament Buildings. Government offices occupy this address until 1948, then occupy the address across the road at 614 until 1955, the last directory available.

Next month we will continue to follow the history of Elliott Street.